A Guide to Identifying Genuine Handcrafted chikankari

Chikankari, the centuries-old hand embroidery from Lucknow, is more than just fashion—it’s an art form. Unfortunately, with the rising demand for Chikankari kurtis and sarees, the market is flooded with machine-made imitations that lack the finesse of real handwork. If you’re a shopper who values craftsmanship and authenticity, this guide will help you distinguish genuine handcrafted Chikankari from mass-produced versions.

1. Look Closely at the Stitches

• Handmade Chikankari uses delicate needlework such as Bakhiya (shadow work), Phanda (knot work), Keel Kangan (flower motifs), and Jaali work (net effect).
• Handcrafted: Stitches may not be 100% uniform, but they feel soft, intricate, and have depth.
• Machine-made: Patterns look overly perfect, flat, and sometimes rough to touch.

2. Examine the Fabric

• Authentic Chikankari is usually done on lightweight, breathable fabrics such as mulmul cotton, georgette, chiffon, and silk.
• Handmade pieces often use finer fabrics where the embroidery blends naturally with the weave.
• Imitations may use thicker fabrics or synthetic blends where embroidery looks “printed on.”

3. Check the Backside of the Fabric

• Turn the garment inside out:
• Handcrafted: You’ll see tiny knots and thread overlaps, proving it was done by hand.
• Machine-made: The backside will look neat, almost like a print.

4. Time and Detailing

Handcrafted Chikankari is time-consuming—an intricate kurti can take weeks to finish. That’s why every motif tells a story. Machine-made versions, however, lack this richness and often look repetitive.

5. Price as an Indicator

While machine embroidery pieces are cheaper, genuine Chikankari, being handmade, commands a fair price for the artisan’s effort. If the price seems too good to be true, it probably is.

6. Buy from Trusted Sellers

The safest way to ensure authenticity is to purchase from verified brands and artisan-led stores that work directly with Lucknowi craftsmen. At Hayat’s Lucknowi, we bring you pieces made by skilled artisans who carry forward this centuries-old legacy.

Conclusion

Chikankari is not just embroidery; it’s heritage stitched into fabric. By learning to identify authentic work, you not only invest in timeless fashion but also support the artisans who keep this tradition alive.

Explore our collection of handcrafted Chikankari kurtis, and own a piece of Lucknow’s elegance today.